Travel writer Jo Kessel filmed the ultimate polar bear cruise aboard Hurtigruten’s 220-passenger expedition ship MS Spitsbergen. The film shows what expedition life is like, with passengers exploring on foot and in inflatable zodiac boats as they scout for wildlife and glaciers. Plus, there’s exclusive footage of Jo being attacked by an Arctic tern, kayaking at the North Pole’s ice edge and finding one very well-fed polar bear.

There are many animals most of us will only ever expect to see in a David Attenborough documentary, like tigers, gorillas and marine life from the depths of the ocean. 

For me, polar bears were firmly on that list, but then I learned of an expedition voyage operated by the Norwegian cruise line Hurtigruten. One of its itineraries circumnavigates Norway’s northern archipelago of Svalbard, home to polar bears. 

And with the sighting of one practically guaranteed, it was too exciting an opportunity to miss.

The rugged, remote Svalbard wilderness sits halfway between Norway and the North Pole. The cruise sails roundtrip from its capital Longyearbyen, the world’s most northern town, which is a three-hour flight from Oslo. This is where I meet the 220-passenger MS Spitsbergen, my home for the next ten days.

Travel writer Jo Kessel, pictured, filmed 'the ultimate polar bear cruise' aboard Hurtigruten's 220-passenger expedition ship MS Spitsbergen

Travel writer Jo Kessel, pictured, filmed 'the ultimate polar bear cruise' aboard Hurtigruten's 220-passenger expedition ship MS Spitsbergen

Travel writer Jo Kessel, pictured, filmed ‘the ultimate polar bear cruise’ aboard Hurtigruten’s 220-passenger expedition ship MS Spitsbergen

Jo's cruise circumnavigated the northern Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, home to thousands of polar bears

Jo's cruise circumnavigated the northern Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, home to thousands of polar bears

Jo’s cruise circumnavigated the northern Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard, home to thousands of polar bears 

The video begins with expeditioners wildlife-spotting on the ship’s top deck, dressed in special expedition jackets. Many have brought along some serious paparazzi-style kit – telephoto lenses, telescopic binoculars and the like – which makes my iPhone seem woefully inadequate.

On board is an expedition team of guides specialising in the region’s wildlife, geology and history. 

At an introductory meeting, they try to manage our expectations by showing us a photo of three very distant polar bears. ‘If we’re lucky,’ they say, ‘this is about as close to the bears as we’ll get.’ 

We’re reminded that polar bears are dangerous predators, the world’s largest terrestrial carnivore with top speeds of 25mph. ‘Our job as your guides is to NOT get too close,’ says the expedition leader. We’re reminded that contrary to popular belief, polar bears are in fact yellow, so it’s best to be on the lookout for distant yellow blobs as opposed to white.

The video, however, starts with birds. They live in colonies with thousands of them teetering on narrow cliff ledges, many with chicks waiting to fledge. First, it’s guillemots; then kittiwakes. They’re teeny, but their cacophony is deafening. We’re warned to keep mouths firmly shut should we look up!

This is the perfect hunting ground for Arctic foxes and, unbelievably, I film one with a kittiwake in its mouth. 

But if this is hard to watch then the footage that follows is even harder. 

It features an Arctic tern, the world’s longest migratory bird, which makes the mammoth journey from Antarctica to the Arctic every year. 

It’s also one of the world’s most aggressive birds during nesting season. 

They swoop and peck at visible threats (humans included) and we’re advised to raise an arm with a closed fist should one approach. 

The camera is rolling when an Arctic tern makes a beeline for my head. It looks scarier than it feels and, even though its sharp beak pierces my gloves, it’s hard to have anything but admiration for a bird that defends its young so fiercely.

'The rugged, remote Svalbard wilderness sits halfway between Norway and the North Pole,' explains Jo. 'The cruise sails roundtrip from its capital, Longyearbyen, the world's most northern town'

'The rugged, remote Svalbard wilderness sits halfway between Norway and the North Pole,' explains Jo. 'The cruise sails roundtrip from its capital, Longyearbyen, the world's most northern town'

‘The rugged, remote Svalbard wilderness sits halfway between Norway and the North Pole,’ explains Jo. ‘The cruise sails roundtrip from its capital, Longyearbyen, the world’s most northern town’

The camera is rolling when an Arctic tern attacks Jo's head, as seen above

The camera is rolling when an Arctic tern attacks Jo's head, as seen above

The camera is rolling when an Arctic tern attacks Jo’s head, as seen above

Using a map to demonstrate where polar bears are found, Jo tells her viewers that they can 'pop up anywhere on Svalbard'

Using a map to demonstrate where polar bears are found, Jo tells her viewers that they can 'pop up anywhere on Svalbard'

Using a map to demonstrate where polar bears are found, Jo tells her viewers that they can ‘pop up anywhere on Svalbard’ 

Jo describes 'a mad scramble to reach top deck' when a message on the ship's loudspeaker announces 'there's a polar bear starboard on the beach' (pictured)

Jo describes 'a mad scramble to reach top deck' when a message on the ship's loudspeaker announces 'there's a polar bear starboard on the beach' (pictured)

Jo describes ‘a mad scramble to reach top deck’ when a message on the ship’s loudspeaker announces ‘there’s a polar bear starboard on the beach’ (pictured)

Up next is the ship. 

My mini-suite is beautifully decorated in light, Nordic pine and everywhere on MS Spitsbergen comes with a view, from the sauna to the gym, and from the hot tubs and lounges to the science lab, where samples can be put under the microscope to gem up on the flora and fauna.

Wherever we go we’re accompanied by guides armed with rifles and flares to use as a last resort should a polar bear take us by surprise. 

A few days in and we see seals, reindeer (an indigenous breed to Svalbard) and walruses, but still no distant yellow blob. While polar bears can pop up anywhere on Svalbard – they number around two thousand – we’re told that more of them live in the east and the best chance of seeing one might be after we’ve rounded the top of the archipelago.

But suddenly a message booms on the loudspeaker: ‘There’s a polar bear starboard, on the beach.’ 

Cue a mad scramble to reach top deck for a better look. And there it is – a big, fat, proud, fluffy yellow male, feeding on the carcass of a walrus that has washed up on shore. 

We’re taken out in zodiac boats so that we can get closer and the real-life version of what we witness beats any documentary hands-down. 

With a belly full of walrus the polar bear struts along the beach, sniffing at the earth and air as it seeks shelter, eventually settling on a mound of snow up the hill where he burrows himself in for a snooze. It’s skin-tingling stuff.

Jo's video begins with wildlife-spotting on the ship's top deck

Jo's video begins with wildlife-spotting on the ship's top deck

Jo’s video begins with wildlife-spotting on the ship’s top deck

To celebrate crossing the 80th Parallel North, the Captain pours ice down passengers' necks

To celebrate crossing the 80th Parallel North, the Captain pours ice down passengers' necks

To celebrate crossing the 80th Parallel North, the Captain pours ice down passengers’ necks

The 'Polar Plunge' - a dip that involves complete submersion in the frigid Arctic Ocean

The 'Polar Plunge' - a dip that involves complete submersion in the frigid Arctic Ocean

The ‘Polar Plunge’ – a dip that involves complete submersion in the frigid Arctic Ocean

Eight polar bears are spotted during our cruise (though I’m asleep for several of these sightings!) but there’s more to the voyage than wildlife. 

Other adventures include wilderness hikes and crossing the 80th Parallel North. 

Not many people ever do this and, to celebrate, the Captain pours ice down our necks. Fear not – this is optional. Then there’s the ‘Polar Plunge’ – a dip that involves complete submersion in the freezing Arctic Ocean. Am I up to the challenge? Watch the video to find out!

Perhaps the biggest thrill is reaching the ice edge of the North Pole. 

From here the ship can sail no further without getting trapped. 

We can, however, paddle. 

A kayaking excursion leads us along narrow channels that have formed at the edge of the ice pack and sees us smashing and bashing at the ice to carve a path through.

It’s hands-down the most memorable kayak I’m ever likely to experience, with nothing but this vast sheet of floating ice separating me from the North Pole.

'Everywhere on MS Spitsbergen comes with a view,' Jo writes, including the above dining room

'Everywhere on MS Spitsbergen comes with a view,' Jo writes, including the above dining room

‘Everywhere on MS Spitsbergen comes with a view,’ Jo writes, including the above dining room

Pictured: Jo tries the sauna onboard the ship, which also features a gym and several hot tubs

Pictured: Jo tries the sauna onboard the ship, which also features a gym and several hot tubs

Pictured: Jo tries the sauna onboard the ship, which also features a gym and several hot tubs

The ship boasts a science lab 'where samples can be put under the microscope to gem up on flora and fauna'

The ship boasts a science lab 'where samples can be put under the microscope to gem up on flora and fauna'

The ship boasts a science lab ‘where samples can be put under the microscope to gem up on flora and fauna’

Jo says her mini-suite, pictured, is 'beautifully decorated in light, Nordic pine'

Jo says her mini-suite, pictured, is 'beautifully decorated in light, Nordic pine'

Jo says her mini-suite, pictured, is ‘beautifully decorated in light, Nordic pine’

TRAVEL FACTS

An all-inclusive 12-day ‘Circumnavigating Svalbard – The Ultimate Expedition’ cruise on MS Spitsbergen roundtrip from Longyearbyen (www.hurtigruten.co.uk / 0203 993 2128) costs from £6,838pp and includes excursions, internal fights from Norway to Svalbard and an overnight hotel stay in Longyearbyen.

The 13-course Svalbard Tasting Menu at Restaurant Huset in Longyearbyen can be booked via Hurtigruten and costs from £150pp.

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It’s a cool, active cruise and we constantly need to refuel. 

Happily cuisine on board is exceptional – pack elasticated trousers. 

Cocktails are good too and the ‘Norwegian Negroni’ is a tasty, bittersweet warmer-upper.

It’s refreshing to be so far from civilisation. 

Only twice do we see other people. 

Once is at the scientific research centre in NY Alesund (population 30), which has the most northern post office in the world. And the other is the Arctic outpost capital Longyearbyen, which is well worth a pre or post-cruise overnight stay. Be sure to try the 13-course tasting menu at Norwegian restaurant Huset. Ingredients are locally sourced and delicious, including sea urchin soup with fermented honey.

This is an extraordinary cruise to the top of the world, where the wildlife and wilderness is on another level. But the proof of climate change is everywhere. The ice is melting, the glaciers are retreating and polar bears have started a new trend of eating reindeer when they can’t find seals. World leaders should be brought here to shock them into action. 

At the moment polar bear numbers are relatively stable so my advice is this – if you’d like to see a polar bear in the wild, go now, before it’s too late.

For more videos from Jo, visit her YouTube channel Go With Jo

MS SPITSBERGEN, SVALBARD AND POLAR BEARS BY THE NUMBERS 

MS Spitsbergen has 102 cabins

MS Spitsbergen has 102 cabins

MS Spitsbergen has 102 cabins

MS Spitsbergen has 102 cabins and can sleep 220 passengers.

It has eight decks and is 330ft (100.54m) long.

The Svalbard archipelago is composed of nine main islands and several smaller ones. It lies midway between the northern coast of Norway and the North Pole.

Two thousand to 3,000 polar bears are thought to live in the archipelago.

Their life span is 15 to 18 years.

Their top speed is 25mph (40kph).

Male polar bears can weigh as much as ten men and are twice the size of female polar bears.

A pregnant female eats a lot of food, gaining around 440lb (200kg) – often more than doubling her body weight.

Adult males typically weigh 880 – 1,320lb (400-600kg).

This post first appeared on Dailymail.co.uk

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