In the midst of the pandemic, cruise ships are back with swab tests, socially distanced mini-golf – and the same old environmental damage. Can the bubble stay intact?

Italians are warm people but we have put aside, for a while, the handshakes and hugs that are our dearest habits. We are on the MSC Grandiosa, the major first cruise ship to depart since lockdown began in Europe.

It’s 16 August 2020, the day after an Italian ministerial decree that allowed cruises to restart, and the Grandiosa has already set sail from Genoa.

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